European Spine Ride 2023 Recap
Day 1
Every year we seem to ride the wine regions of Europe, last year it was the Rhone route, earlier it has been along the Rhine and the Danube where steep hillside with vineyards cascade into the valleys, and then , of course, there was Bordeaux to Beziere, where mile after mile we were surrounded by vineyards. This year was no different. Our starting point was Logrono in the heart of the Rioja wine district - anyone would think I had ulterior motives. The roof of our hostel leaked and I assure that someone was conducting the ‘snorechestra’ in our dorm, sleep was patchy. But undeterred we were up and ready to roll at the appointed time.
Our route was to roughly follow the Camino Trail, or St James’ Way, a very popular pilgrimage route. Along the way you are able to get a special passport stamped at hotels, churches, shops , pubs, well almost anywhere really. This provides a record of your pilgrimage which can be certified at the end of your journey. So 1st stamp the leaky postal, job done.
We mounted and rode 200 metres around the corner for a group photo at the Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda. Job 2 done and now we were really on our way. We started to spot our fellow pilgrims and gave a rather shy ‘Bien camino” the traditional salutation for those engaged on their path.
Initially a little overcast we were able to make good time to lunch but then…just as the sun peeks from behind the clouds a monster appears before us. The looooong, hot climb of Alto de Pradilla stretches the team out but there are heroic efforts from riders and blank refusals to get in the van. Kenney, our oldest rider spanks JP (brother -in-law) up the hill - The scenery is stunning and the reward for the climb is an absolutely beautiful descent down the other side which becomes a highlight. It’s not the only monster of a hill, or perhaps mountain at 1245 metres (4100 feet) is it considered a mountain?) But it is the longest.
We continue to collect the stamps for the travelling passports We arrive in Burgos in time for Jordan to contiue documenting our journey via TikTok . Pizza is welcome for tea to replenish some of the energy we have expended going up this big hills, I mean mountains. At 10pm on the road outside our hostel there was a noisy musical parade of 12-13 groups of 50-ish children, adults and brass bands in colour coordinated costumes - the parade was to celebrate a regional holiday and followed a Bullfight in town - still a big thing in this part of Spain. The night is much quieter and sleep is welcome.
Day 2
The carnage of a national holiday continued in the morning in Burgos with people still heading home after a big night out as we start our ride out of town. This time we manage about a mile before we hit the ‘posh’ part of town and come across the absolutely mental sight of the parade of giant puppets leaving the town hall. As we watch the puppets we have our first fall of the ride as Jordan forgets to pull his feet out of the clips and falls in slow motion. Two minutes later we stop off at Burgos Cathedral where a Nun helped us get passport stamps. She took ages to find the stamp but for some reason everyone was very willing to wait for her to come back. When she returned I understood the willingness of the team to hang around. It was worth the wait to listen to the choir who even through their warm up sounded amazing. Once out of the city we get split up and due to navigation ‘issues’ we lose our way. Unfortunately trying to rectify our route Jordan once again slowly falls sideways up a hill as his gears break. The bike no longer rideable means that the van has to come to the rescue bringing the spare bike for him to ride. - Then they were 2, without a Garmin and relying on Google maps which decided that rough ground is much better ride over than roads. Needless to say we went a long way round. We are in awe as we approach the incredible Convento de San Anton straddling the road and are fortunate to be able to stop and take in the sight. Today the tables are turned and JP spanks Kenney up all the hills.
Puncture number one occurs followed shortly after by a second, and then another gear disaster but the bike remains rideable - just it had to happen!
The route really flattens out into a long, straight, rising road across the prairie like the front cover of The Eagles greatest hits That night we are treated to a most beautiful sunset in Sahagun whilst Luca trying to shoot the scene receives stern warnings from Storks to stay away from their nest high up in a clock tower.
Day 3
We have a problem, we are a bike down, or a man spare, whichever way you look at it. Plan is formed for the group to ride without van support and for Simon (whose Spanish is great) to take the two bikes to a bike shop in Leon to try to get them fixed - Much of the day is spent on the Camino - Amazing John wishes everyone possible a "BUEN CAMINO!!” And they all holler the salutation back We meet for lunch at the beautiful Leon Cathedral and find only one of the bikes can be fixed, the spare is well used this year.- Dan, Simon and Luca getting lost on the escape from Leon because Garmin dropped the satellitesIt had to happen at some point, we manage 3 punctures at one go, a new record! - More storks! Fruit trees abound along our route and Amazing John decides the juicy cherries would do him well and just as he is about to harvest the tree the rest of the riders realise that he is actually in someone’s garden - could have been a close call. JP spanks Kenney up all the hills. There's Camino art on walls and buildings everywhere in this region around Astorga. We pay a pilgrims price for a 3-course meal at the hostel, just 11 Euros. And off to bed.
Day 4
CIMA COPPI: Cruz de Hierro, Spain: Amazing John is in high spirits today and sings and dances with nearly the whole group although no one looks quite as uncomfortable as Dan. Once again we begin the day passing a Cathedral in Astorga and the Gaudi Palace.
We are back into the mountains and before long we are winding our way up Cruz de Hierro in Rabanal del Camino. It is a long, long climb and at the top we regroup at the totem cross. The totem sits atop a mound of shells and stones that pilgrims continually add toad each crack within the wooden trunk is jammed with stones, shells and small pieces of memorabilia. But whatever goes up must also come down, and quickly, almost too quickly with lots of squealing as brakes are jammed on through hairpin descents. Molinesca and lunch await us at the foot of the mountain along with a freezing cold river Mika, Jordan, Simon, (Adam - not really, it was way too cold), Jon, Will and Kenney go swimming. Fortunately it’s warm enough to dry off nice and quickly. Paul nearly blows his bum off by putting lemonade in his water We pass through Ponferrada and stumble across the stunning Knights Templar castle and in the adjacent church we pass through the Door of Forgiveness. Last 20km of the day is an absolute killer, it’s not hilly but everyone is just pooped. So, to pass the time everyone in the group is assigned a muppet character. I’m not sure everyone was thrilled with their character! At the postal we meet with American, Canadian and English pilgrims and settle for a lovely chat.
Day 5
QUEEN STAGE: The day starts with a 17% climb out of the village reducing some riders to walking up the hill. Then onto another long winding hill and back down again as the road we were supposed to take is closed. Fortunately some locals provide us with an alternative route and we’re off again, with only a minor detour as it turns out. Before long we are into the mountains again and up, up up we go. The climb up to O Cebreiro has us up above the clouds overlooking a stunning mountainous vista. AT the summit the medieval village of O Cebreiro is a treat with thatched buildings and ancient cobbled streets. Our passports are stamped by monks in a church that is said to have hosted the Holy Grail. Fortunately there are no killer bunnies or holy hand grenades! Our descent is glorious with quality roads and sweeping bends. The wind in our faces masks the heat of the day, it is searingly hot as we lunch in Samos. The village fete cheered and applauded as we passed (they obviously can see the Tour resemblance although we suspect they were well lubricated). The afternoon is spent up and down hills, some really nasty ones. Tea at the hostel is great (BBQ ribs) and balances out the rudeness of the staff who seemed to hate that we were there. :0)
Day 6
The roads, pathways and trails are full of hundreds of young people on the Camino (including the rude teenage waiter from the previous night) and for many miles we share our route with the masses. Our first stop this morning was at Ventas de Naron where there is a tiny chapel. Queueing for our passport stamps we are surrounded by sacred music, sacred art and a VERY loud blind man who was fond of the teenage "chicas" who were there for stamps. The only real incident is a chain break before lunch (roadside repair job!) And then Amazing John decides that helmets would look much better and be so much more functional if they were worn back to front!! Whilst the scenery remains stunning the profile of the day is like sharks teeth. Nothing too long but lots of short sharp hills. Eventually we hit Santiago de Compostelaand Kenney, our wisest member of the group guides us into the plaza of the cathedral. It is stunning and surprisingly quieter than we had expected. 500 miles of up and down and glorious weather and scenery and we have arrived, another year dine! In contrast to our experience of yesterday dinner is eaten in the amazing Italian restaurant Restaurante Pizzeria L'Incontro with the super-friendly waiters. And now to finalise plans for next year.
